I am currently obsessed with the Columbia River King "Springer" salmon.  "Springers" refer to the very first Salmon to enter the river.  Once they enter the fresh water of the river, they no longer eat and wait until the fall to spawn.  In order to survive this prolonged spawning process they stay in the ocean and fatten up to the last minute before entering the river.  They reach up to twenty two percent body fat. This is twice as high as farm raised salmon.  The "Springer" is often compared as an equivalent of a Kobe beef in the fish world.  The season for this highest quality fish is fleeting, but the filets do freeze amazingly well.  The taste is super pure and clean and while I've been enjoying eating it raw, it is also incredible roasted with crispy skin.  Roasted and served with a side of mushrooms it pairs amazingly well with Burgundy or Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. My favorite source for this superb fish is a wild foods purveyor out of Washington called Foods in Season

 

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